The AW and AWW grades are all-white hickory and come with a wax finish which is better than lacquer finish. The company doesn’t use a high grading system, but all the axe handles are made with a wax finish and all-white hickory. Instead of spending money on low-quality axe handles, buy from the leading and reliable brands to enjoy the service and quality. If the wood has any competitor in the market, it is fiberglass. The fiberglass is more potent and capable of taking frequent abuse compared to traditional wood handles. They are highly durable and also have excellent shock-absorbing properties. Wood axe handles come in different choices, such as Carpinus Betulus, Walnut, Birch, and Ash. But nothing is strong and durable than hickory handles. Among the other two axe handles choices, wood is the cheapest. Also, It doesn’t feel whippy in the hot season or unpleasant to hold in cold temperatures.
I agree with everything you say except the quote. While being a great glue when clamped, the expanding foam holds NO structural strength. All you are doing is filling the head with bubbles. Body coated with fire engine red enamel and the cutting edges in clear lacquer to deter rust. ANSI Standards call for bit hardness of Rc 45-60, at least ½ inch back from the cutting edge. Council Tool internal standards call for tempered bit hardness of Rc and we target 1-1/4 inches from the cutting edge. The poll and eye walls are not hardened and remain in the as forged condition. Depending on your purpose, do have a look at other wood properties, too.
Place a large metal spike or bolt on top of the wood and tap it firmly with the hammer to dislodge it completely. If the handle is fiberglass, skip the drilling, but use the bolt or spike to dislodge the handle from the head. The wooden handle is made by American craftsmen of the finest 2nd growth Tennessee Hickory. And it’s attached to the head not with a single wedge, like most axes, but four! One lateral wood wedge and three additional metal wedges work together to brace the head in all dimensions. Frankly, if you ever want to replace the handle, you’ll have to drill out the old one. Then the heads are heat treated to make them twice as hard as a regular fire axe, and hand polished to a mirror finish. They’ll cut through 16 penny nails and remain razor sharp. With a little care your Firefighter Axe will keep its good looks and fine edge as long you own it.
If you need to stake a tent to the ground or drive rebar into the ground, an axe with a maul option would be a perfect choice. However, an axe is still a great option for chopping your own wood. It doesn’t require any type of fuel for it to function. As well as, it isn’t a chore to move around your property. All it really requires is asheathfor safe transportation. But having the right tools can make this task so much easier. There was a time when garden tools ruled the world with might and brilliance. While there are so many options to choose from, you can truly never go wrong with the traditional, American made Pulaski axe from Council Tools. A household brand name that outdoorsmen trust, the durability and quality of materials is unparalleled. Designed with s removable hex nut to easily replace the handle if needed.
Handle options are offered in our full range of Hi-Viz lime and orange, yellow, black fiberglass and traditional hickory wood. Leatherhead Tools is the only company in the industry dedicated to tools and tools alone. Their tools are of the highest quality, offer the best value, and are proudly made in the USA. Pour the epoxy mixture slowly over the center top of the head where the handle is exposed. Concentrate on pouring the epoxy into the small crack running around the perimeter of the handle. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the base of the handle where it meets the head. Press it firmly into the small gap around the head and the handle to prevent the epoxy from leaking out as it dries. Each type of axe handle has its upsides and downsides. The key to choosing the right axe and type of handle is to figure out your needs and what you’ll be using it for. This step is as easy as centering the wedge and driving it in.
It is a good idea to actually sand down the varnish for better grip. But what the axe handle is made out of is another preference. It is about what is comfortable for you and your hands while working. However, there is a danger of the axe head flying off unintentionally. For that reason, I actually prefer an axe that is a solid piece. I think they are a little safer all the way around. If you can’t handle the force it takes from you to swing a long-handled axe, then you might want to go with a shorter handle. At the end of the day, it is all about comfort when working and what is easiest on your body. Some people prefer a longer axe handle because it brings more force with each swing. However, again, this needs to be a personal preference thing.
So I went to using my dremel to put an edge on the head this morning, and the first side went fine, then during the second, the neighbor’s cat jumped on my leg and startled me. If you are looking for some heavy work like felling big trees or logs than buy a maul and if you want to split small and medium-size wooden blocks go for the quality ax. Always consider the above-mentioned points before taking any decision we are sure you will not regret. Firewood can easily be obtained through felling dead trees by best axes and mauls and finally splitting and chopping them into smaller chunks. I didn’t swing the maul as much as the ax, however, I considered the fibreglass handle to be superior in nearly every respect. So if you can have the splitting power of a traditional wood axe packed into 3-pounds, then I’d say you have yourself a good deal.
Clean up is easy, just follow the instructions from Fire Axe INC. I have the wood handle and with some sandpaper, and linseed oil it’s back to new. A fiberglass handle when exposed to the sun, will start to crack and turn colors after a few short years. I prefer the wood because every few months, some sandpaper, linseed oil and a couple hours of spare time will make them smooth & as good as new. Sure the fiberglass is stronger, but seriously as long as the wood handle is in good shape, you’re not going to swing it hard enough to break it. I recomend these tools for everyone in my Dept. who is in the market for one. If you use some grit sandpaper, that will clean it up well, as well as the steel wool. 2-1/8″ cut. Full polished head with milled, crowned face and full-grip, select hickory handle. Rust-resistant powder coat finish. MADE IN USA.
Go on pouring the epoxy in the hole until the epoxy is flush with the upper part of the handle and top of the head of the maul. Drill a number of ¼-inch holes through the wood remain in the maul head. Be careful not to drill into the metal wedges in the wooden handle. The holes serve to relieve pressure on the wood from the wedges. This pushes the wood tightly against the inner side of the maul head. Splitting Mauls are designed as such that they can take heavy work easily like felling big dead trees. Mauls will turn them into medium size wooden blocks that are further split into small parts using splitting axes.
The 34 inch fiberglass handle is the ideal length for getting all of the power you need into the swing. While many brands like Helko, Hultafors, and Husqvarna stay away from artificial handles, other well known industry titans like Fiskars embrace them. The materials and balancing on this axe are identical to the Michigan single bit, but this axe has a double bit head. That means you get 2 tools for the price of 1, making this axe a pretty sound investment. The only drawback is that the head’s weight isn’t centered the same, which can make it a little tougher to guide your swing. The head of this axe weighs 3.5 pounds, making up a total of about 70% of the tool’s weight. This is standard for all-around axes like this one, giving you the right balancing to get in a powerful swing. This is the standard axe from the Collins brand. It’s a two handed axe, meant for chopping down trees, splitting logs, and any other heavy duty foresting task you need.
If the old handle was fiberglass, it may be easier to purchase a new axe. Removing the old epoxy can be difficult, and time consuming. I prefer a wooden handled axe or maul for my own use but we use fiberglass handled axes with our youth group as they are much tougher. BTW, another very important factor to consider as far as axes go – ergonomy. One of the reasons I truly love my Gransfors Bruks small forest axe is that aside from an excellent head, the handle is absolutely perfectly shaped. Wherever and however you grip it, it allows full control whether you do heavy chopping or finer work like carving. Most other axes on the market, either wood or fiberglass handle, fall way short in that department. And I think that sort of abuse would be realistic in a lot of SHTF scenarios. And an axe is the original multitool, filling a lot of roles.
The weighting and the balance gave you more force than you would think posable. Yes Doug, for that kind of work an overbuilt axe with a fiberglass handle might be a better option. When it comes to demolition, I’d rather have a Pulaski, maybe a big crowbar and/or a heavy maul. Anyway, I think the average outdoor enthusiast really shouldn’t dwell too long on the whole issue. Unless you do HEAVY chopping on a daily basis the extra durability of fiberglass just doesn’t matter. A wooden handle on the other hand is easier to replace when necessary. Looking through my collection of axes, it seems that I have a lot more fibreglass handles than I did five years ago. Some people want to add an extra level of hold to be safe.
I would advise that you stick with any handle that is snugly affixed to the axe head. If the head wiggles even a bit, however, it is a potential danger and should be replaced. This article will teach you how to customize any axe into a tool fit for the Illinois Railsplitter himself. I encourage you to try to find an heirloom axe to restore. With the success of Gransfors Bruks, boutique axes have mushroomed in popularity over the last decade or so. You can then pour the epoxy mixture into the hole that is between the fiberglass handle and the maul. Ensure you pour the epoxy slowly initially while checking if the caulking cord sealant really reaches the bottom of the handle and there is no leaking.
Then mix two units of epoxy together in a container prior to opening . The delivery comes with instructions to help with how to use the epoxy ingredients. Hold a large chisel, bolt or similar tool, in the central part of the wood and tap it gently with a hammer to push out the remnant wood from the maul head. Frequently repositioning the chisel or bolt in different places, remove the entire wood. Open the vise grips such that the opening is wider than the width of the handle but narrower than the head of the maul. Put the head of the over the vise grips with the remnant of the handle over the open space. The edges of the maul head should rest on the sides of the vise.